Surface Waves In Channels Of Finite Depth Classic Reprint

Surface Waves in Channels of Finite Depth (Classic Reprint)

Excerpt from Surface Waves in Channels of Finite Depth The purpose of this paper is to study surface waves in an infinite channel of finite depth. The channel in all cases is assumed to have a horizontal bottom and parallel walls. The phenomenon of surface waves is approached through two approximations, i.e. The amplitude of the wave is small which yields a linear theory or that the depth of the water is small compared to some other significant length such as the radius of curvature of the water surface which results into a non - linear theory. In what follows, the first chapter is based on the former and the remaining in: chapters on the latter. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Nonlinear aspects

This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Ship Hydrodynamics, Water Waves, and Asymptotics